Douglas Keeve's witty, energetic 1995 documentary about his then-lover, fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi, begins with Mizrahi reading mixed reviews of his 1993 show of new outfits and then follows him for the next year as Mizrahi seeks inspiration for his next public showcase. Sardonic, witty, and immensely likable, Mizrahi sets about finding his new muse, which turns out to be a lively but unlikely marriage of "'50s cheesecake meets Eskimo fake fur." Keeve shows us most stages of the production process and the related disasters and heightened anxieties that attend. He also gives us a big finish with a fly-on-the-wall look at the backstage mania that fuels those celebrity-packed rituals, where leggy supermodels walk dispassionately down long runways. Some of the best, bitchiest stuff is in the way the busy models deal with the presence of Keeve's cameras: Naomi Campbell comes across as a crab while Cindy Crawford could easily be anybody's swell, flirty pal. But we already knew that, didn't we? Shot mostly in black and white, with color stock reserved, quite wisely, for the climactic big show. --Tom Keogh
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